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Australia in Depth
(Article #94)
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![]() 1935 1/- Victorian Centenary |
![]() 1964-65 7/6d Cook |
| The 1/- Victorian Centenary was issued in larger numbers yet is scarcer than the 7/6d Cook | |
(5) ‘All stamp values have done poorly
since 1981’
This is something still heard from time to time, although not as often
as in the 1990’s, and for good reasons. Quite frankly, nothing could
be further from the truth. Once again, regular readers of Australia
in Depth will have a pretty good idea as to some of the
areas where prices have appreciated rapidly in recent years.
Sometimes in a falling market, all things have fallen, but this most certainly has not been the case in the philatelic market since 1980! Some people might have had their fingers burned and think that all stamps are bad. The reality is that some stamps fell, and unfortunately, they bought the wrong material when parts of the market were rising or peaked, and for all the wrong reasons. The important aspect of this is to learn from what happened, and hopefully not make the same mistakes again.
(6) ‘You must buy mint unhinged as it is
better than mint lightly hinged’
As a general rule, until at least the early 1970’s, a mint stamp
was a mint stamp, regardless of how many times it had been hinged. However,
a lot has changed since then, with many preferring to pay significant
premiums for mint unhinged stamps in fine ‘as issued’ condition.
This topic could be debated well into the future, as there is no clear cut answer. Much rests in the eye of the beholder, and one of the greatest beauties of stamp collecting is that you are free to choose what you collect.
With some KGVI and most QEII material, it makes sense as mint unhinged stamps are generally available. Yet many insist on buying mint unhinged stamps only, even when they are after stamps that are not even known in that condition. I have even been asked a number of times for Sydney Views in mint unhinged condition, where the norm is without gum at all; anything else is very unusual.
In terms of price, the difference between unhinged and hinged is often considerable. For most Kangaroos the price of a nice mint unhinged stamp is about two to three times that of an equivalent hinged one, with some being higher than this. Opinions are much divided as to which represents better value for money or are more desirable at current prices. Given the choice between four nice lightly mounted KGV 4d Lemons at a retail of $100 to $125 each or a nice unmounted mint example at around $400 to $500, I think I would settle on the former. Several years ago these figures here would have given you five hinged for one unhinged, so on this example, there has been some convergence between the price of mint lightly hinged and mint unhinged.
The important thing here is not to be too dogmatic; otherwise you might become your own worst enemy. If you are accustomed to buying perfect mint unhinged stamps, but your budget does not allow a complete collection of Kangaroos by watermark, then I believe that settling on fine lightly hinged mint for the higher values would be a good option. At the same time, many of the rarer varieties and other items are not known in genuine unhinged condition.
(7) ‘Condition is everything’
Whilst condition is very important, it certainly is not everything. This
can become a real trap that might either limit the completeness of your
collection in some areas, or limit the ability of even the most patient
dealer in assisting you. Some stamps, booklets or covers are simply not
known or available in ‘perfect’ condition.
Many of the rarer Australian watermark errors have slight faults that would hinder their salability as normal stamps, yet with the rarity factor thrown into the equation, they continue to sell for record prices. The same is true of very rare items of postal history, booklets or die proofs to name just three other areas.
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| Slight staining does not stop this rarity
from being one of Australia's most valuable stamps |
On the other hand, a stamp like the 1964-65 £2 King is readily available in good condition, so one with a slight fault would be considered a ‘space filler’, and should be priced accordingly.
(8) ‘If it is not listed, then it is valuable’
This is one that I am sure many of you have encountered. Without going
into too much detail, every catalogue publisher has to set criteria for
what they list, and don’t list; so many items may simply not be
listed as a matter of editorial policy. For the Part 1 catalogue, Stanley
Gibbons list many imperforate errors, but specifically do not list those
imperforate on one side only. Catalogues vary in their listing
policies, so you will need to do your research in this regard.
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| 24¢ Fungi imperforate at left - not
listed by Stanley Gibbons as they do not list imperforate one side errors. This 'unlisted' item is valuable. Of course for those that have access to the ACSC, it is listed in that catalogue. |
Many ‘back of the book’ items, although certainly not all, and minor varieties are not of great value and are simply outside the scope of most catalogues. In some cases, such as revenue stamps, other useful reference material is available. On the other hand, if something unlisted is within the scope of a catalogue and is a new discovery, then it may be significant. However, it also may not be significant, something which many ever optimistic collectors find difficult to accept.
(9) ‘Blocks of four are worth more than
four singles’
Although blocks look attractive and certainly have wide appeal, in most
cases they are literally worth the individual prices of the stamps. However,
there are notable exceptions, such as certain classics or other items
that are very rare in blocks, or multiples of any kind for that matter.
The Sydney Views of New South Wales are rarities in blocks and in fine
condition usually sell for very high prices. At the Dale Lichtenstein
sale in 1990, a block of four of the Plate 2 1d, SG 11 sold for £7150
including buyers premium (about $A15700 at the time), against a catalogue
value of £1000 then for four singles. Several examples of high prices
for blocks have been reported in this column over recent times.
Better varieties and errors in blocks or strips if available, are generally more desirable than singles and can command a significant premium, especially if the multiple includes normal stamps or stages of the variety.
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| Western Australia 1854 1/- This very
rare used block of four is worth a substantial premium over the price of four single stamps! |
On the other hand, a 7/6d Cook block is not a scarce item and should cost you no more than four times the price of a single stamp.
(10) ‘Sets are worth more’
Despite what many people think, in the majority of cases, the
answer is that sets are worth the sum total of the stamps included. It
should be noted that the SG prices given for sets are usually slightly
less than the total of the individual stamps. It can make an important
difference when certain odd values are difficult to obtain. They may have
had a short life, having been superseded, or may be a later issue due
to a postal rate change. In such cases, a set without them might be difficult
to sell; in addition, the odd values can be relatively difficult to obtain
without the balance of the set.
With Australian stamps, dealers that stock them will
usually be able to help you in filling your gaps, whether it is a single
stamp or a set. A set of standard Australia Post official first day covers
from 1970 to 2004 would be worth no more than the sum total of the individual
covers, as would a complete set of year books from 1981 to 2004. In fact,
with such items, you should reasonably expect to get a discount
for buying a complete set as that now amounts to a significant purchase.
(11) ‘Buying stamps from the Post Office
is an easy way to make money’.
For a time this was the case, however, it certainly has not been for most
of the last 25 years, and for many stamps you have to go back much further
than that.
In fact, if you allow for inflation, there are many pre-decimal stamps in mint condition that sell today for well below their face value. In some cases, that is probably all they are worth, however, with others, time will probably reveal a few sleepers.
A common complaint that I get when people decide to find out what their modern collection, or sometimes more accurately termed ‘accumulation’ might realize is ‘why buy stamps when they are worth less that I paid for them’ Well, the truth is that in most cases, for items purchased from the Post Office, the moment you handed your money over, their resale value is less than what you paid for them. The only escape being that the mint stamps can be used on mail to retrieve their value. If you sell them on the secondary market, you will normally get less than the face value; in some instances well under the face value.
(12) ‘It is bad to buy in (what may be
perceived as) a poor market’
This one is not quite as relevant as it used to be, as certain sections
of the market have been very strong in recent times. Having said that,
there are some sections of the market that have not been as strong as
others to date, and it may actually be a wise choice to explore these
carefully. Opportunities to buy at under the long term odds will be available
with knowledge, experience and persistence.
From a purely financial position, the decision to buy or not should be made by comparing the purchase price now with anticipated price movements and the opportunity cost of the funds used. From a collecting point of view, you may miss out on an important item that you need to acquire if you are to enhance your collection towards its potential. To not buy it may mean that there is a long wait for the next opportunity to present itself. Once again, research or sound advice is very important in making such decisions.
In the Great depression of the 1930’s John Maynard Keynes did extremely well in the stock market by looking beyond the current market and seeing it in terms of its place in the trade cycle. Many relevant matters are more complex today; however, the fact is that even in relatively poor sectors of the market, worthwhile opportunities still present themselves to those who seek. In all economic times, the stamp trade still offers much and should not be underestimated.
(13) ‘Averaging down is a good thing’
On the financial side of things again, investors, speculators and even
collectors often feel better if they can reduce their average cost on
a range of items that may have fallen in value or where they simply paid
too much for them. It is a commonly held belief that this is a good thing,
but it is not logical.
It may help you feel good, but it may be for all the wrong reasons. Although you may have an overriding plan, you should still focus on each transaction as an independent choice. Assess whether it is wise in the sense that it will be better value than you can get later. In some instances it may be wise, but it will not necessarily be the case. As mentioned earlier, issues such as genuine rarity and expected future demand come into play and are important considerations.
Another side of this is that with the fall in value some items such as decimals or sheets of postage, people often believe that ‘I’ll do better if I hold them’ This is a common thought, but often unlikely to be true. In the few areas where values have significantly fallen, and demand will probably never recover to the point where it exceeds supply, you are probably better off to ‘cut your losses’ by realising what you can, and at least putting the money to better use somewhere else.
For example, if you are in the unfortunate position of holding onto the 1966 Decimal Navigator sets that you might have paid $250 for in 1980 in the hope that they will recover to that level, then I think that you are on a hiding to nothing. If you no longer wish to collect or hold them, my advice would be to take what you can get and do something more useful with the money.
(14) ‘A price rise means that you have
made money’
Whether it’s a stamp, a painting, a vintage car or anything else,
you have never really made anything until you have sold it. This one speaks
pretty much for itself. With stamps, it is literally only on paper until
you have actually sold it!
(15) ‘Dealer A looks cheaper than dealer
B, so I will get better value from A’
If a stamp is offered very cheaply, check it out with care. Make sure
that when you compare price, that you also compare what you are getting,
otherwise you may be fooling yourself. When comparing price, be sure to
compare apples with apples. As previously noted in the three part series
on issues relating to philatelic expertising, it is my view that many
rarer items should only be purchased with a recognised certificate of
genuiness. That way you have a much better idea of what you are actually
buying.
Having said that, with all other things being equal, there will normally be a trade-off between the price and quality of an item. A premium quality stamp at a premium price; an average stamp at an average price and a ‘space filler’ at a space filler price can all represent an equivalent value for money at a given point in time. I suspect that over time, we will see relative price rises for desirable stamps in premium quality, so the equivalent value of today may not always hold. This is the subject of debate and no one has all the answers in regard to this issue.
To put it another way, when a university student has
$2000 to spend on a first car, there will always be options that represent
good value for money and others that represent poor value for money. The
same applies to stamps. Genuine value for money should not be confused
with what appears to be a bargain. In other words, if something looks
too cheap, or too good to be true, be careful. Don’t reject it out
of hand, however, if you are unsure, don’t be scared to seek trustworthy
or independent advice and have it checked out.
(16) ‘Copy - When is a copy a copy?’
Last but not least, I have always thought of the use of the word ‘copy’
in philatelic circles as somewhat of a mystery! If someone offers you
a copy of a document, a painting, a piece of furniture or some jewellery,
you would not expect to receive an original.
However, in philatelic circles, when you see the word copy, it won’t refer to a fake - where a genuine item has been altered in some way to make it more valuable, nor a forgery that has usually been reproduced from scratch or even a legitimate reprint that may have even been officially issued by the postal authorities. It generally relates to an original! When you see something offered as ‘a superb copy of this rarity’ it invariably refers to a genuine original! Specialists are accustomed to it, but it rightfully confuses beginners and non-collectors, who want to buy an original, not a copy. I look forward to the day when such use is erased from philatelic jargon; however I suspect that holding my breath might not be a wise option!
Final thoughts
In summary, quite a few of the ideas floating around in philatelic circles
make questionable sense. If you have a strong interest in the financial
side of collecting, rather than purely the collecting side, and you act
on doubtful here say, without any knowledge, you may well be setting yourself
up for future disappointment.
As with most past times, it is important to be prepared to put in the time to explore issues such as those raised in this paper, and to ask questions if you are uncertain. In the long run, there is no substitute for a combination of undertaking careful research and seeking reliable advice. The acquisition of suitable reference material is also a very wise investment in this regard. Otherwise you could make poor decisions and any gains that you make might be more through a stroke of luck than by design.

Simon Dunkerley Pty Ltd
P. O. Box 461 Blackburn Victoria 3130 AUSTRALIA
Tel: (61 3) 9878 1142 Mob: 0419 872 951
Email us at simon@simondunkerley.com